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Knife Care by Jay Fisher


Knives are an investment. Since the cost of a good quality knife can range from $30 to several thousand for a high end art knife you want to take care of that fine blade. Jay Fisher, a well known knife-making artisan, offers the following knife care tiKnife Care
by Jay Fisher

Knives are an investment. Since the cost of a good quality knife can range from $30 to several thousand for a high end art knife you want to take care of that fine blade. Jay Fisher, a well known knife-making artisan, offers the following knife care tips to help you protect and maintain your investment. My thanks to Jay for his permission to use this material.

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The weakest part of ANY knife is usually the tip, which happens to be the most abused part! Take care of the point, and the rest of the blade will follow.
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NEVER THROW KNIVES, unless specifically designed for that use.
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NEVER use knives to pry.
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Do not leave knives and sheaths in direct sun or high heat. High ultraviolet oxidizes woods and bleaches the color out of some gemstone. Heat bakes the protective oils out of most hardwoods and weakens adhesive bonds.
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Hand wash blades when necessary with non-abrasive gentle detergent, polish blades and fittings with good quality polish like Simichrome. Clean handles and sheaths with damp cloth and buff with soft dry cloth.
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Do not oil sheaths; this will cause them to soften, weakening their protective function, softening glues, sealants, and dyes.
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Protect carbon steel knives with a light coating of hand-buffed wax, not oil. Oil attracts dust as well as weakens the sheath.
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Some carbon steel knife blades are blued. Nitrate bluing is a very thin patina that will wear away, leaving a gray metal finish. Sodium (gun) bluing is black, more penetrating, but will also eventually wear away. These are hot blues; used to temper, lightly protect, or cosmetically enhance the blades. They are rust inhibitors, not rust preventatives.
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Etching is used in the maker's mark and for some cosmetic enhancement. If you live long enough to polish away the etching without the help of power equipment, you won't have any fingertips left!
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Wood handles usually benefit from a light coating of furniture wax and a good hand rubbing.
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Brass and Nickel Silver fittings can be buffed and lightly waxed for protection.
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It is normal for some scuffing to show on the front bolster or guard, this is where the sheath holds the knife.
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For long term storage, store your knife WITH the sheath, not IN it! The chemicals used in tanning of leather sometimes react with moisture in the air, leading to corroding of even stainless steels! Wrap your dry knife in plain paper, store with sheath and photographic quality desiccant in a plastic bag.
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KEEP KNIVES SHARP! Most accidents occur when dull knives are pushed too hard.
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For sharpening: THE RAZOR EDGE BOOK OF SHARPENING BY JOHN JURANICH (Warner books 38-002)

Please visit Jay's nice website and see his amazing creations. You can find him at www.jayfisher.com It will be worth the time to take a look at Jay Fisher Knives.

If you have any questions please contact us at info@worldknives.com or via regular mail at:

WORLD KNIVES, LTD.
2103 HARRISON AVE. NW, STE. 2-646
OLYMPIA WA 98502-2607

Toll Free: 866-862-5233

KNIVES AND THEIR CARE

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